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Citing articles via Google Scholar. Email alerts Latest Issue. Subscribe to Article Alert. Food Politics and Consumption in Peronist Argentina. From Field to Table in Labor History. Related Topics petrona dona women change food pite book. Petrona de La Cruz Cruz. Almost all second-generation immigrants residing in Buenos Aires by the mids were literate, even though their parents sometimes were not.

Creating a Common Table in Twentieth-Century Argentina

In addition to knowing how to set and serve an elegant table, Petrona suggested she should know how to cook, present, and serve food in a modern way. She preached a recipe-and-measurement type of cooking and implied by contrast the inferiority of previous cooking methods, which relied principally on approximations and received experience. Petrona encouraged readers to shape, mold, and decorate dishes to make them more appealing. Thumbing through her cookbook, one is struck by the hand-drawn color illustrations that depict piped potato roses, hard-boiled eggs fashioned into bunnies, fruit pyramids, and cakes built to resemble houses, soccer fields, and churches.

Several people I spoke with recalled how they would flip through these illustrations as children as if they were looking through a picture book. By visually demonstrating the aesthetic appeal of stylized food, Petrona incorporated the artistry for which she had become famous as a demonstrator for Primitiva. Championing the contemporary notion that the human transformation of natural things could improve them, she emphasized the artistry of the modern woman who prepared such creations.

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Petrona applied this modern culinary artistry to a wide range of dishes and recommended that her readers do the same. Therefore, even as Petrona included some explicitly nationalistic recipes, such as a cake with an Argentine national flag, along with some typical criollo cuisine, like empanadas, she presented French, Spanish, and Italian dishes as equally important for Argentine amas de casa to master. French vol-au-vents shared the page with Italian-style pizza, two dishes with local fowl Pichones Rellenos a la Cacerola, a stuffed young partridge in a stylized casserole, and Martinetas en Bella Vista, a roasted bird indigenous to the region , and two versions of empanadas one from her native province of Santiago del Estero and the other popular in Buenos Aires.